If you use this procedure carefully, you can successfully install a self-adhesive (black felt or velvet) lining in your scope tube WITHOUT WRINKLES.

I use and recommend the Self-Adhesive, Low-Pile Black Velvet available directly from McMaster-Carr mail order house; part number: 88015K33; Description: Adhesive-Backed Sheeting, Width: 45", Thickness: .030", Color: Black, Maximum Continuous Length: 300'

READ COMPLETELY THROUGH THIS PROCEDURE BEFORE YOU BEGIN - You don't want to ruin your fabric by cutting it the wrong size.


  1. Remove the mirror and all attachments to the tube that require bolts that will project through the lining fabric.
  2. If possible, clean the inside surface of the tube with acetone to remove any grease, paint, etc. that will interfere with adhesion. (Wear rubber or latex gloves and perform this in a well-ventilated area)
  3. Find (or make) a suitable "wide" (1" to 1/2 the ID of the tube is good - the wider the better) rigid strip with straight, parallel edges with a length sufficient to run the length of the tube that you will line. I used a piece of 1"sq. aluminum bar stock. A long carpenters' level or a straight metal yardstick should work fine.
  4. Lay the tube on it's side and locate the strip in the tube with one edge along the imaginary line you want the lining seam to run. After I experienced peeling from an "up" seam the first go round, I wanted my seam "down" relative to "gravity" with the scope horizontal when I relined my tube. Make sure the strip "seats" itself along it's length with the curve of the tube so that it is parallel with the tube axis.
  5. While holding the strip in place, use a suitable marker, pencil, etc. to draw a distinct line on the inside tube surface along the seam-side edge of the strip.
  6. Lay the lining (velvet, felt) fabric out flat (up or down - whatever suits you) on a suitable cutting surface (work table, cardboard, etc - NOT the kitchen table).
  7. Determine a "straight" machine-cut side (there should be two) of the fabric and decide if this edge will run the "length" along the tube or around the inside "circumference". Call this side 1.
  8. Use a large carpenter's square to "square" one end of the fabric by laying it along side 1 and cutting along the perpendicular edge with a utility knife to make side 2.
  9. Measure the appropriate distance needed from side 2 to the opposite side (if this is to be the "circumferential" side, allow an extra 1/2" for initial overlap) from side 2.
  10. Flip the square and lay it along side 1 again (but in the opposite direction). Locate the square at the measured distance and cut side 3.
  11. Determine the "other" direction distance needed from side 3 to side 4 and use the "square" (positioned along side 2 or 3) to make the final cut.
  12. Usually the "machine" cut sides are thin or lacking in felt 1/8" to 1/4" in from the edge and need to be "dressed" up with a fresh cut using side 2 or side 3 for the "square" reference. Be sure to take this in to account when you are measuring.
  1. Position the tube horizontally on a table at a comfortable eye level.
  2. Peel back about 1" of the removable backing along one of the "tube length" edges and crease the backing to keep it away from the fabric adhesive.
  3. Roll the fabric up (felt-side in) smaller than the tube ID with the exposed adhesive edge on the outside.
  4. Carefully slide the fabric roll into the scope tube being careful not to let the exposed adhesive "grab" the tube before you have it positioned.
  5. Position the exposed edge along the line you drew and carefully press the fabric edge down along the line. Be sure to leave about 1/4" sticking out of the end of the scope for "trim" margin.
  6. While holding the fabric adhesive side away from the tube, peel back another couple of inches of adhesive backing along the tube length.
  7. Carefully press the additional exposed fabric to the tube WORKING FROM THE CENTER - OUT in both directions (toward the front and back) and progressively from the previously adhered edge. Do not "stretch" the fabric as you press it in place, else wrinkles are inevitable.
  8. Progressively work your way around the inside of the tube peeling and sticking a little at a time.
  9. When the adhesive backing is completely removed, press along the (ovelapped) seam to insure good adhesion and lay the tube on the table again horizontally.
  10. Put your straight-edge "wide" strip back inside the tube with one edge placed over and along the middle of the seam overlap.
  11. While holding the straight edge firmly in place, "double cut" through the overlap with the utility knife along the strip edge. Make sure the cut goes through both layers of fabric along the entire length of the lining.
  12. Remove the straight edge and remove the seam trim waste. To get the 2nd piece of trim out from under the lining edge, peel up the lining fabric at the corner until you can "grab" one end of the trim waste strip with your fingers (or needle-nose pliers). Pull and "strip" out the the 2nd piece from under the fabric.
  13. Once the trim waste is removed, press the fabric back down along the seam to secure the (now butted) edges to the tube.
  14. Use your (sharp) utility knife or a new razor blade to carefully trim around the circumference of the lining fabric at the end of the tube.
  15. If you have bolt holes that need to go through the lining, use a sharp pointed nail, ice pick, etc to punch through the tube mounting holes from the outside. Go back and enlarge the holes from the inside twisting the pointed tool several times to open the fabric hole to max.